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As we roll into the new year, when words like “refresh”, “revamp” and “revitalise” seem to be on loop at dinner tables as people think of ways to better themselves, it’s only natural to reconsider one’s wardrobe.
After the Christmas period – when festive occasions called for kaleidoscopic sequins and sparkles – most of us hit a sartorial plateau as we return to a daily routine that does not involve nightly cocktail parties and morning mince pies.
Suddenly, your slogan T-shirt collection seems as bleak as the weather and even the slickest of suits can’t lift your sartorial spirits.
But your January style needn’t be as humdrum as your mood, nor need you dash out to the nearest Zara for a satiating fast fashion fix.
Created with Sketch.
Created with Sketch.
1/16 Viva la 1990s
Something about 1990s fashion struck a chord in the 2010s. Back then, the prevailing fashion aesthetic was defined by grunge staples (Doc Martens, crop tops and chokers) and was pioneered by designers like Marc Jacobs and Alexander McQueen taking inspiration from the bands of the time. In the past 10 years, much of it returned with aplomb, from stiff denim – mostly seen in the form of straight-leg jeans or dungarees – to hoop earrings and lashings of leopard print. We can largely thank members of Gen Z for the revival, who were too young to live through our fashion mistakes the first time and therefore thought it was a good idea to reintroduce them rather than leave them in the past. OP
2/16 The normcore takeover
While the 2010s saw the return of logomania and outlandish fashions towards the end of the decade, many rejected rampant consumerism altogether and sought sartorial sanctuary in the inconspicuous. In 2013, trend forecaster K-hole dubbed this phenomenon “Normcore”, describing a generation that sought to embrace the banality of plainness. The term later expanded from a description of functional dressers to encompassing a bona fide fashion trend that took bland style to a homogenous extreme. The look was typified by a rejection of extravagance, with garments such as stonewash jeans, comfortable trainers, tonal outfits and Steve Jobs-inspired turtlenecks. High street favourites like Cos and Gap, as well as British designer Margaret Howell who is renowned for her trademark pared-down catwalk looks, were normcore favourites. SY
3/16 Millennial Pink became everyone’s colour obsession
Some people thought it was pastel; others called it salmon, and few even went rogue by labeling it peach. Eventually, a new name was born: Millennial Pink. It’s hard to pinpoint the moment Millennial Pink became 'a thing', but it began sneaking onto the runway way back in 2012, was all over Wes Anderson's Grand Budapest Hotel in 2014 and by 2016, Rose Quartz became Pantone's joint colour of the year before the dusty, pinky orange shade reached cult status in the way most trends do nowadays: on Instagram. Soon it was on everything from notebooks to beauty products, covering billboards, furniture and even our hair. But this was not just any colour, Millennial Pink was less about aesthetics and more about symbolism. It represented the playfulness, buoyancy and feminism of a generation. It was just pink enough to be feminine and not too pink to be girlie. The boom may be over but Millennial Pink lives on. OP
Rex Features/Getty Images
4/16 Streetwear influenced a new era of luxury fashion
Over the last decade, streetwear has undergone a major shift, with designers and consumers responding to real street style in droves. A trend typically associated with underground subcultures, streetwear surged in demand largely thanks to brands like Vetements, headed by Balenciaga’s creative director, Demna Gvasalia, that seamlessly blend high and low culture to give this urban look a luxury feel. Vetement’s extra-long sleeved hoodies were all over Instagram, with T-shirts coopting quotidian brand names and logos, like "DHL", and becoming covetable, high-end items. It wasn’t long before other brands took note, with everyone from Louis Vuitton to Givenchy sending their upgraded versions of banal streetwear items down the runways. The trend proved its worth in 2017, when skateboarding brand Supreme was valued at $1 billion, and luxury streetwear label Off-White was named as the "hottest fashion brand in the world”. SY
AFP via Getty Images
5/16 T-shirts got political
Slogan T-shirts are nothing new — Katherine Hamnett has been making them for 50 years — but thanks to the volatile political climate of the past decade, they became a mainstay of our wardrobes. Slogan tees were used to represent our political leanings, from Brexit to the climate crisis, with designers including Vivienne Westwood, Hamnett and Bella Freud as well as all high street stores, all throwing their own variations into the ring. Feminbist messages were particularly present on many designs. In 2014, the Fawcett Society revived its famous ‘This is what a feminist looks like’ T-shirts as part of a campaign supported by Labour MP Harriet Harman and then-Liberal Democrat leader, Nick Clegg. In 2016 Dior took the title of Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie's essay "We Should All Be Feminists” and put it on plain white tees in glitter capitals. If you’ve got something to say, put it on a T-shirt. OP
Getty Images
6/16 Honey I shrunk your handbag
Logic states that the point of a handbag is to keep your essentials in one place. But the catwalk pays no heed to convention. Here, creativity rules. When Simon Porte Jacquemus first introduced his miniature three-inch tall bag, the Le Sac Chiquito, in his spring/summer 2018 collection, it was met with adoration and became an instant streetstyle hit. For his autumn/winter 2019 show, the designer outdid himself with the debut of Mini Le Chiquito, a handbag that was shrunk to a mere 1.5-inch height. The Jacquemus tiny bag had all the makings of a viral accessory, so much so that it was been spotted dangling from the fingertips of stars like Rihanna and Kim Kardashian. But Jacquemus wasn’t the only designer to give them a go. In November, singer Lizzo attended the American Music Awards carrying an extra-small Valentino Garavani bag that left Twitter debating what actually fit inside the tiny tote. SY
Getty Images for dcp
7/16 Fashion went gender-fluid
Perceptions of gender have changed dramatically in the last decade as society questioned traditional notions of masculinity and femininity. Nowhere did this have a greater impact than in fashion, where these boundaries blended more than ever before. Historically, menswear and womenswear was showcased in separate fashion weeks. But by the end of the decade, brands often combined the two, casting models of all genders to walk the same runways. Meanwhile, gender-neutral garments, such as boiler suits and tailoring surged on the trend scene, with designers like JW Anderson and Toogood leading the way as high street labels followed suit. H&M and Zara also launched unisex lines, while genderless boutique brands, including Bethnals and LaneFortyFive, flourished. Then there were the gender-bending celebrity wardrobes to consider — think Billie Porter Ezra Miller and Timothee Chalamet — who shunned traditional staid suits for sequins, tutus and gowns on the red carpets. OP
Getty Images
8/16 Daddy cool
The fashion set might have quivered in their couture when Christopher Kane sent models down the runway wearing Crocs in 2016, but the moment marked the start of an unexpected sartorial phenomenon. With their clunky straps and orthopaedic soles, Crocs are the antithesis of chic. But by encrusting them with gems, filling them with fur and marbling their exteriors, Kane was able to send us all spinning for his collaboration. It paved the way for a similar offering from Balenciaga, whose platform Crocs had gems and enormous platforms. And so the ugly shoe trend was born, later spawning 'ugly' trainers, or 'dad shoes' as they became known. Balenciaga’s Triple S trainers were the most popular offering, while Louis Vuitton and Stella McCartney produced their own equally dad-like versions and high street shops created affordable alternatives in garish colour palettes. OP
Getty Images for Coachella
9/16 The boom of athleisure
Thanks to the countless wellness trends that emerged in the last 10 years, wearing workout gear outside of the gym went from being convenient to a full-on life statement. We’re not talking slouchy tracksuit bottoms and your favourite band tee, though. Athleisure was all about slickness. The colours were neutral, the tops were snug and leggings were flattering above all else. Wearing athleisure was more than just a fashion choice; it was a lifestyle one that said: ‘hey, I exercise and I look good doing it’. The popularity of athleisure was largely thanks to the many celebrities (including Kendall Jenner and Hailey Bieber) who were regularly photographed looking prim and polished on their way to and from the gym, often with a green juice in hand and clad in high end brands, inspiring the rest of us to save up for plush workout gear from Sweaty Betty and Lululemon. In 2016, Beyoncé joined in the fun by launching her own athleisure brand, Ivy Park. OP
Rex Features
10/16 Fur is so last decade
As our concerns around ethics in fashion reached new heights, the debate surrounding the use of fur in the industry took centre stage, with an increasing number of brands implementing bans. 2018 marked an industry-wide shift, with London Fashion Week becoming the first major event not to show any real fur. In 2019, it looked as though fur was finally on its way out, with a number of brands including Burberry and Gucci taking a stand, and brands such as Shrimps leading the way with brightly coloured faux alternatives. The ethical issues of using animal fur even reached the Queen who, according to her official dresser, vowed to only wear fake fur at royal engagements from 2019. Despite the shift being welcomed by animal rights organisations, others shared concerns that the use of faux-fur, despite being more ethical, has a greater negative environmental impact, due to its artificial fibres.SY
Getty Images
11/16 The Meghan and Kate Effect
Throughout the 1980s, the fashion industry experienced the so-called "Diana effect” – a term used to describe the royal’s influence on the public’s shopping habits – but it took several decades for a new royal to compete with the fashion impact of the People's Princess, and then along came two. In 2010, Kate Middleton’s blue engagement dress, designed by London-based brand Issa, was an instant sell-out and cemented the royal’s position as a fashion icon. But Middleton was not alone in causing a fashion frenzy. Meghan Markle sparked a similar demand for items despite having only been a member of the royal family for just over a year. The duchess made a significant mark with her sartorial choices with shoppers regularly waiting in anticipation to find out what she will wear. The "Meghan effect” has resulted in long waiting lists, websites selling out of designs in seconds and hundreds of copycats. SY
Getty Images
12/16 Second-hand news
For a long time, vintage clothing was the reserve of thrifty grandmothers and penny-saving students. But this decade, as the reality of the climate crisis became unavoidable thanks to the work of activists Extinction Rebellion and Greta Thunberg, and the damaging impact of fast fashion was writ large, eco-conscious fashion fans turned to their local charity shops and shunned the new, taking a stand against the industry’s waste problem. Charities including Oxfam encouraged people to take part in campaigns like ‘secondhand September’ while the arrival of new websites and apps, like Vestiare Collective and DePop made it much simpler to sell and source stylist pre-loved clothing. 2019 also saw the dawn of fashion rental apps, so we don’t see conscious shopping going anywhere soon. OP
Getty Images
13/16 A new logomania
Logomania was reborn in a postmodern sensibility in the 2010s. Thanks in part to the arrival of Allessandro Michele at Gucci, the double G was shot into stratospheric trend success when he revived the belt and splashed logos all over T-shirts. Soon, Fendi and Chanel followed suit, rejecting the idea that logos were brash and reclaiming them in all their Warholian glory. But it was the birth of Parisian design collective, Vetements, that really upped the ante, when — to the bewilderment of delivery men, globally — they released a DHL T-shirt for £500 that fashion fans went wild for. Meanwhile, luxury brands monogrammed everything from dresses and jumpers to handbags and phone cases. Such was the power of the logo this past decade, that Burberry and Celine even had theirs entirely redesigned. Welcome back, shameless conspicuous consumption. OP
Instagram/@KylieJenner
14/16 The demise of the skinny jean
For a long time it looked as though nothing could knock the skinny jean off its fashion throne. Like the Elizabeth II of trends, the drainpipe reigned for longer than any preceding trouser shape had until 2018, when it was forced to abdicate. In came the frayed-hem of the cropped, straight-leg. According to fashion search website Lyst, straight-legged jeans are now the most sought-after cut, with more than 200,000 shoppers in 2019 scouring the internet each month for the perfect pair of high-waisted “mom jeans”. This decade also welcomed back flares, high-waist 501s and denim culottes, making it the first time in a long time that no single trouser shape was de rigueur. While the skinny may no longer lead the way, it will always be a wardrobe staple. Amen to choices. SY
Rex Features
15/16 Fourth wave fashion
Fashion has always reflected the prevailing political mood, and the 2010s were no different. The decade saw the rise of fourth wave feminism and with it: a female-first approach to dressing. As several women took the helm at a number of luxury fashion houses, from Maria Grazuia Chuiri at Dior to Clare Waight Keller at Givenchy and former Spice Girl Victoria Beckham turned her hand to design, a shift in fashion occurred that put women’s busy lives front and centre. Perhaps most notably, Phoebe Philo’s tenure as creative director of Celine saw her offer chic staples for women who didn’t want to dress for anyone but themselves, and her fondness for donning Stan Smiths for her post-show bows made us all replace heels for trainers and marked the beginning of the trainers-with-trouser-suits takeover. The power of feminist fashion really hit home when Hedi Slimane tried to skintight, emaciated sexiness to the catwalks and faced the wrath of social media. SY
AFP via Getty Images
16/16 That ‘70s Show
From environmental activism to feminism and political unrest, the 2010s shared a fair few similarities with the 1970s, so it’s really no wonder designers looked back on the decade for inspiration. 1970s silhouettes and colour palettes cropped up on catwalks and in high street stores several times throughout the past 10 years, taking their cues from style icons including Farrah Fawcett and Diana Ross via the likes of over-the-knee boots, folk dresses, corduroy and bell sleeves. Brands including Yves Saint Laurent and Diane Von Furstenberg returned to their roots with collections of psychedelic prints and flowing skirts, while new London-based label Rixo took over our Instagram feeds and reignited a consumer love affair for the era with their colourful tea dresses. For spring/summer 2020, the design duo took their love of the decade to new heights, showing an entirely Woodstock-themed collection. SY
PA
1/16 Viva la 1990s
Something about 1990s fashion struck a chord in the 2010s. Back then, the prevailing fashion aesthetic was defined by grunge staples (Doc Martens, crop tops and chokers) and was pioneered by designers like Marc Jacobs and Alexander McQueen taking inspiration from the bands of the time. In the past 10 years, much of it returned with aplomb, from stiff denim – mostly seen in the form of straight-leg jeans or dungarees – to hoop earrings and lashings of leopard print. We can largely thank members of Gen Z for the revival, who were too young to live through our fashion mistakes the first time and therefore thought it was a good idea to reintroduce them rather than leave them in the past. OP
2/16 The normcore takeover
While the 2010s saw the return of logomania and outlandish fashions towards the end of the decade, many rejected rampant consumerism altogether and sought sartorial sanctuary in the inconspicuous. In 2013, trend forecaster K-hole dubbed this phenomenon “Normcore”, describing a generation that sought to embrace the banality of plainness. The term later expanded from a description of functional dressers to encompassing a bona fide fashion trend that took bland style to a homogenous extreme. The look was typified by a rejection of extravagance, with garments such as stonewash jeans, comfortable trainers, tonal outfits and Steve Jobs-inspired turtlenecks. High street favourites like Cos and Gap, as well as British designer Margaret Howell who is renowned for her trademark pared-down catwalk looks, were normcore favourites. SY
3/16 Millennial Pink became everyone’s colour obsession
Some people thought it was pastel; others called it salmon, and few even went rogue by labeling it peach. Eventually, a new name was born: Millennial Pink. It’s hard to pinpoint the moment Millennial Pink became 'a thing', but it began sneaking onto the runway way back in 2012, was all over Wes Anderson's Grand Budapest Hotel in 2014 and by 2016, Rose Quartz became Pantone's joint colour of the year before the dusty, pinky orange shade reached cult status in the way most trends do nowadays: on Instagram. Soon it was on everything from notebooks to beauty products, covering billboards, furniture and even our hair. But this was not just any colour, Millennial Pink was less about aesthetics and more about symbolism. It represented the playfulness, buoyancy and feminism of a generation. It was just pink enough to be feminine and not too pink to be girlie. The boom may be over but Millennial Pink lives on. OP
Rex Features/Getty Images
4/16 Streetwear influenced a new era of luxury fashion
Over the last decade, streetwear has undergone a major shift, with designers and consumers responding to real street style in droves. A trend typically associated with underground subcultures, streetwear surged in demand largely thanks to brands like Vetements, headed by Balenciaga’s creative director, Demna Gvasalia, that seamlessly blend high and low culture to give this urban look a luxury feel. Vetement’s extra-long sleeved hoodies were all over Instagram, with T-shirts coopting quotidian brand names and logos, like "DHL", and becoming covetable, high-end items. It wasn’t long before other brands took note, with everyone from Louis Vuitton to Givenchy sending their upgraded versions of banal streetwear items down the runways. The trend proved its worth in 2017, when skateboarding brand Supreme was valued at $1 billion, and luxury streetwear label Off-White was named as the "hottest fashion brand in the world”. SY
AFP via Getty Images
5/16 T-shirts got political
Slogan T-shirts are nothing new — Katherine Hamnett has been making them for 50 years — but thanks to the volatile political climate of the past decade, they became a mainstay of our wardrobes. Slogan tees were used to represent our political leanings, from Brexit to the climate crisis, with designers including Vivienne Westwood, Hamnett and Bella Freud as well as all high street stores, all throwing their own variations into the ring. Feminbist messages were particularly present on many designs. In 2014, the Fawcett Society revived its famous ‘This is what a feminist looks like’ T-shirts as part of a campaign supported by Labour MP Harriet Harman and then-Liberal Democrat leader, Nick Clegg. In 2016 Dior took the title of Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie's essay "We Should All Be Feminists” and put it on plain white tees in glitter capitals. If you’ve got something to say, put it on a T-shirt. OP
Getty Images
6/16 Honey I shrunk your handbag
Logic states that the point of a handbag is to keep your essentials in one place. But the catwalk pays no heed to convention. Here, creativity rules. When Simon Porte Jacquemus first introduced his miniature three-inch tall bag, the Le Sac Chiquito, in his spring/summer 2018 collection, it was met with adoration and became an instant streetstyle hit. For his autumn/winter 2019 show, the designer outdid himself with the debut of Mini Le Chiquito, a handbag that was shrunk to a mere 1.5-inch height. The Jacquemus tiny bag had all the makings of a viral accessory, so much so that it was been spotted dangling from the fingertips of stars like Rihanna and Kim Kardashian. But Jacquemus wasn’t the only designer to give them a go. In November, singer Lizzo attended the American Music Awards carrying an extra-small Valentino Garavani bag that left Twitter debating what actually fit inside the tiny tote. SY
Getty Images for dcp
7/16 Fashion went gender-fluid
Perceptions of gender have changed dramatically in the last decade as society questioned traditional notions of masculinity and femininity. Nowhere did this have a greater impact than in fashion, where these boundaries blended more than ever before. Historically, menswear and womenswear was showcased in separate fashion weeks. But by the end of the decade, brands often combined the two, casting models of all genders to walk the same runways. Meanwhile, gender-neutral garments, such as boiler suits and tailoring surged on the trend scene, with designers like JW Anderson and Toogood leading the way as high street labels followed suit. H&M and Zara also launched unisex lines, while genderless boutique brands, including Bethnals and LaneFortyFive, flourished. Then there were the gender-bending celebrity wardrobes to consider — think Billie Porter Ezra Miller and Timothee Chalamet — who shunned traditional staid suits for sequins, tutus and gowns on the red carpets. OP
Getty Images
8/16 Daddy cool
The fashion set might have quivered in their couture when Christopher Kane sent models down the runway wearing Crocs in 2016, but the moment marked the start of an unexpected sartorial phenomenon. With their clunky straps and orthopaedic soles, Crocs are the antithesis of chic. But by encrusting them with gems, filling them with fur and marbling their exteriors, Kane was able to send us all spinning for his collaboration. It paved the way for a similar offering from Balenciaga, whose platform Crocs had gems and enormous platforms. And so the ugly shoe trend was born, later spawning 'ugly' trainers, or 'dad shoes' as they became known. Balenciaga’s Triple S trainers were the most popular offering, while Louis Vuitton and Stella McCartney produced their own equally dad-like versions and high street shops created affordable alternatives in garish colour palettes. OP
Getty Images for Coachella
9/16 The boom of athleisure
Thanks to the countless wellness trends that emerged in the last 10 years, wearing workout gear outside of the gym went from being convenient to a full-on life statement. We’re not talking slouchy tracksuit bottoms and your favourite band tee, though. Athleisure was all about slickness. The colours were neutral, the tops were snug and leggings were flattering above all else. Wearing athleisure was more than just a fashion choice; it was a lifestyle one that said: ‘hey, I exercise and I look good doing it’. The popularity of athleisure was largely thanks to the many celebrities (including Kendall Jenner and Hailey Bieber) who were regularly photographed looking prim and polished on their way to and from the gym, often with a green juice in hand and clad in high end brands, inspiring the rest of us to save up for plush workout gear from Sweaty Betty and Lululemon. In 2016, Beyoncé joined in the fun by launching her own athleisure brand, Ivy Park. OP
Rex Features
10/16 Fur is so last decade
As our concerns around ethics in fashion reached new heights, the debate surrounding the use of fur in the industry took centre stage, with an increasing number of brands implementing bans. 2018 marked an industry-wide shift, with London Fashion Week becoming the first major event not to show any real fur. In 2019, it looked as though fur was finally on its way out, with a number of brands including Burberry and Gucci taking a stand, and brands such as Shrimps leading the way with brightly coloured faux alternatives. The ethical issues of using animal fur even reached the Queen who, according to her official dresser, vowed to only wear fake fur at royal engagements from 2019. Despite the shift being welcomed by animal rights organisations, others shared concerns that the use of faux-fur, despite being more ethical, has a greater negative environmental impact, due to its artificial fibres.SY
Getty Images
11/16 The Meghan and Kate Effect
Throughout the 1980s, the fashion industry experienced the so-called "Diana effect” – a term used to describe the royal’s influence on the public’s shopping habits – but it took several decades for a new royal to compete with the fashion impact of the People's Princess, and then along came two. In 2010, Kate Middleton’s blue engagement dress, designed by London-based brand Issa, was an instant sell-out and cemented the royal’s position as a fashion icon. But Middleton was not alone in causing a fashion frenzy. Meghan Markle sparked a similar demand for items despite having only been a member of the royal family for just over a year. The duchess made a significant mark with her sartorial choices with shoppers regularly waiting in anticipation to find out what she will wear. The "Meghan effect” has resulted in long waiting lists, websites selling out of designs in seconds and hundreds of copycats. SY
Getty Images
12/16 Second-hand news
For a long time, vintage clothing was the reserve of thrifty grandmothers and penny-saving students. But this decade, as the reality of the climate crisis became unavoidable thanks to the work of activists Extinction Rebellion and Greta Thunberg, and the damaging impact of fast fashion was writ large, eco-conscious fashion fans turned to their local charity shops and shunned the new, taking a stand against the industry’s waste problem. Charities including Oxfam encouraged people to take part in campaigns like ‘secondhand September’ while the arrival of new websites and apps, like Vestiare Collective and DePop made it much simpler to sell and source stylist pre-loved clothing. 2019 also saw the dawn of fashion rental apps, so we don’t see conscious shopping going anywhere soon. OP
Getty Images
13/16 A new logomania
Logomania was reborn in a postmodern sensibility in the 2010s. Thanks in part to the arrival of Allessandro Michele at Gucci, the double G was shot into stratospheric trend success when he revived the belt and splashed logos all over T-shirts. Soon, Fendi and Chanel followed suit, rejecting the idea that logos were brash and reclaiming them in all their Warholian glory. But it was the birth of Parisian design collective, Vetements, that really upped the ante, when — to the bewilderment of delivery men, globally — they released a DHL T-shirt for £500 that fashion fans went wild for. Meanwhile, luxury brands monogrammed everything from dresses and jumpers to handbags and phone cases. Such was the power of the logo this past decade, that Burberry and Celine even had theirs entirely redesigned. Welcome back, shameless conspicuous consumption. OP
Instagram/@KylieJenner
14/16 The demise of the skinny jean
For a long time it looked as though nothing could knock the skinny jean off its fashion throne. Like the Elizabeth II of trends, the drainpipe reigned for longer than any preceding trouser shape had until 2018, when it was forced to abdicate. In came the frayed-hem of the cropped, straight-leg. According to fashion search website Lyst, straight-legged jeans are now the most sought-after cut, with more than 200,000 shoppers in 2019 scouring the internet each month for the perfect pair of high-waisted “mom jeans”. This decade also welcomed back flares, high-waist 501s and denim culottes, making it the first time in a long time that no single trouser shape was de rigueur. While the skinny may no longer lead the way, it will always be a wardrobe staple. Amen to choices. SY
Rex Features
15/16 Fourth wave fashion
Fashion has always reflected the prevailing political mood, and the 2010s were no different. The decade saw the rise of fourth wave feminism and with it: a female-first approach to dressing. As several women took the helm at a number of luxury fashion houses, from Maria Grazuia Chuiri at Dior to Clare Waight Keller at Givenchy and former Spice Girl Victoria Beckham turned her hand to design, a shift in fashion occurred that put women’s busy lives front and centre. Perhaps most notably, Phoebe Philo’s tenure as creative director of Celine saw her offer chic staples for women who didn’t want to dress for anyone but themselves, and her fondness for donning Stan Smiths for her post-show bows made us all replace heels for trainers and marked the beginning of the trainers-with-trouser-suits takeover. The power of feminist fashion really hit home when Hedi Slimane tried to skintight, emaciated sexiness to the catwalks and faced the wrath of social media. SY
AFP via Getty Images
16/16 That ‘70s Show
From environmental activism to feminism and political unrest, the 2010s shared a fair few similarities with the 1970s, so it’s really no wonder designers looked back on the decade for inspiration. 1970s silhouettes and colour palettes cropped up on catwalks and in high street stores several times throughout the past 10 years, taking their cues from style icons including Farrah Fawcett and Diana Ross via the likes of over-the-knee boots, folk dresses, corduroy and bell sleeves. Brands including Yves Saint Laurent and Diane Von Furstenberg returned to their roots with collections of psychedelic prints and flowing skirts, while new London-based label Rixo took over our Instagram feeds and reignited a consumer love affair for the era with their colourful tea dresses. For spring/summer 2020, the design duo took their love of the decade to new heights, showing an entirely Woodstock-themed collection. SY
PA
Thanks to Instagram, thousands of emerging boutique brands are acquiring dedicated followings and celebrity fans. And their designs are often more distinctive and playful than anything you’ll find on the high street.
They also tend to be of a higher quality, meaning that these are items you can keep for longer and possibly later pass on to a friend or relative.
Without further ado, read on for our pick of the five fashion brands you need to know about for 2020, from Bella Hadid’s go-to Australian boutique to the bohemian label from Budapest that is worshipped by the street style set.
Nodaleto
For shoes that you will cherish and adore for years to come, look no further than Nodaleto. This 1970s-inspired brand, based between Paris and Los Angeles, is famed for its clunky Mary-Jane platforms that come in myriad colours and textures.
For traditionalists, there is the classic black patent pair, while thrill-seekers can experiment with versions in tangerine, silver, or lilac.
Don’t neglect their impressive boot collection, either. The Bulla Corta Agam Mix boots come with the same sculptural heel as the Mary-Janes but also include a bright scarlet stripe down the middle, making them a true statement piece.
It’s no surprise this label is fast becoming a favourite among fashion influencers, including Camille Charriere.
With Jéan
There’s something enduring and nostalgic about this humble Australian label, created by two friends in July 2017.
Every item is ethically manufactured and produced, using natural fibre fabrics such as cotton, linen and rayon, meaning it is a more sustainable investment than many other brands out there.
The clothes themselves are inspired by the sun-soaked cobbles of the south of France, with white lace, Prarie crop tops and lightweight sundresses featuring heavily.
The palette is awash with pastel shades, with the majority of items coming in pale blues, yellows and pinks.
Model Bella Hadid was recently spotted in the brand’s popular Marseille dress, which she used as a beach cover up, pairing it with a turquoise bikini.
DÔEN
This is a brand for those who just can’t get enough of the ethereal Californian style - think wispy silk nightgowns, hand-woven knits and richly pattered maxi dresses.
It's particularly suited to new mothers too, given its stylish maternity line, which trades slouchy tracksuits and stretchy jeans for floaty blouses and Victorian floral dresses.
But the free-spirited clothes, which come in loose fits and comfortable cottons, are not the only selling point for this Los Angeles-based brand.
DÔEN is run by a collective of creative local women with a feminist business model that champions women in the workplace and regularly evaluates the factories it partners with, ensuring they reflect their values with regards to gender and social equality.
The label has also partnered with several women’s rights organisations, including Planned Parenthood, which supports female reproductive rights in the US.
Patou
Patou is set to bring some joy to your wardrobe this year by way of printed pleated dresses, A-line coats and brocade blouses.
Formerly known Jean Patou, Patou has recently undergone a renaissance thanks to creative director Guillaume Henry, who showcased his first collection for the label at Paris Fashion Week in September 2019.
Coming from Nina Ricci, where he was creative director for four years, Henry brings his artistic sensibility to Patou with bulbous silhouettes (see the oversized bow velvet mini dress) and playful feather trims on skirts and sleeves.
Nanushka
This Budapest-based brand has been a permanent fixture in fashion editor's wardrobes for years.
But its aesthetic and brand image has recently evolved on Instagram, where the brand showcases its minimalistic staples (think belted trousers, fitted shirts and bomber jackets) and fine craftsmanship.
The brand favours intricate patterns and prints, while materials like vegan leather give them an ethical edge.
Tie-dye features heavily, too, hypnotising shoppers on everything from belted jumpsuits and short-sleeved T-shirts to button-down shirts and flared trousers.