Croatia’s third largest city after the capital Zagreb and coastal favourite Split, underrated Rijeka is generally overlooked by tourists, who tend to pass through en route to the islands. But among Croatians, this historic spot is well known and loved as the cultural capital of the country.

A phoenix from the ashes, the city’s Hapsburg grandeur and industrial prominence had long since faded by the 1970s and 80s, when punk and new wave musicians began using its abandoned warehouses for gigs and club nights. Money then poured in as it celebrated becoming Croatia’s first European Capital of Culture for 2020 ‒ alas, the same year that few tourists would benefit from the polish-up. But since then, with much of its elaborate Baroque architecture restored and standing pride of place, Rijeka is thriving, its music scene still pumping, maintained by its student and graduate population who call the city home.

What to do

Climb to the castle

Take the staircase that ascends from sea level all the way up to Trsat Castle, a medieval fortress built by Frankopan kings. The brave will be rewarded with showstopping views over the city and Kvarner Bay beyond. When you reach the area at the top you’ll be overjoyed to find out that within the castle there’s a great bar, Vintage Caffe. Time your visit for around 6pm so you can mooch around the walls and turrets of the carefully restored look out, before enjoying a sunset drink at Vintage accompaniede by the best views in the city.

Hit the beach

There are a handful of pretty beaches just a short bike ride away from the city centre. To the west, Plaža Kantrida is the busiest; a long stretch of small grey pebbles, it is family and dog friendly. To the east and within walking distance of the centre is Plaža Sablićevo, a small cove that gets very busy by lunchtime (no matter how early or late in the season), so get up with the birds to wade into the life-affirming waters of the Adriatic before everyone else shows up.

Plaža Glavanovo just next door is a similar affair: you need to ascend a hundred or so steps to get down to the crystal waters. It’s locals favourite Plaža Kostrena that takes the cake here, though, the cleanest water and most beautiful setting with far fewer people. It’s a 15-minute drive east of the city centre, but very much worth it.

Check out Croatian music

Rijeka has been the heart of Croatia’s local music scene since the 1970s, when its atmospheric disused factories and warehouses lent themselves to many a raucous live performance. The most famous survivor of those decades is Ri Rock festival, a two-day event which takes place every December. The organisation behind it also hosts gigs of all manner of genre throughout the year ‒ check out their website ahead of your trip.

Where to stay

A Modernist building in the heart of the town centre, Grand Hotel Bonavia is an enjoyably classy stay for fans of early 20th century furniture and old school hospitality. Ask for a room on one of the upper floors for sweeping views of the city and make sure to book breakfast as it includes an impressively wide range of high quality foods to suit all dietary needs. Doubles from £100; plavalaguna.com/it/hotels/bonavia

For something a bit different, check in to Botel Marina, a surprisingly large ship securely docked just by Rijeka’s central bus stop. Now retired, the ship was built by the Danish navy in the 1930s and has a really interesting history, having moved to Yugoslavia’s Adriatic coast in the late 1960s. There’s a restaurant and bar on the fourth deck and more than 30 rooms of all shapes and sizes. Doubles from £70, dorm beds cost £25; botel-marina.com

Also in downtown Rijeka, Teatro Suite & Rooms, so named as they are adjacent to the beautiful old theatre, offer boutique accommodation in lush rooms or an apartment. It’s a great spot if you like a few nightcaps too, as Teatro Accommodation sits just above one of the snazziest local hangouts, Teatro Lounge & Bar, the perfect place for an al fresco spritz. Doubles from £110, or £130 for the studio apartment; teatro.com.hr

Where to eat

There’s a heady Italian influence in Rijeka ‒ geographically, historically and gastronomically ‒ so you’ll likely be tempted to go Italiano. If so, the best of the bunch is Maslina in Ivan’s Koblera Square, which has perfected its take on Croatian/Italian fusion. Dine outside and watch the world go by over a glossy black cuttlefish risotto or one of the signature pizzas.

Rijeka is the right town for seafood, and Konoba Feral is top of the pile in terms of grub and ambience. The maritime-themed, quirky decor is matched only by its fun staff, and the prices are very reasonable. Check the chalkboard menu out front for the menu of the day ‒ it varies according to what’s fresh out the net.

If you’re in need of a quick, affordable bite, swing by Braca Burek to grab a slice of everyone’s favourite Balkan fast food, burek, a savory pastry filled with cheese, meat or spinach. Braca, which has been in business since 1951, is the finest baker of this greasy but insanely delicious pie.

Finally, it’s not a trip to Rijeka without grabbing dessert at one of the city’s cute cake shops, like Bonbonniere Kras. Both branches on pedestrianized Korzo boulevard stock a great selection of treats, and are fun spots to stop and watch the world go by.

Where to drink

Book Caffe Dnevni Boravak (dnenvi boravak meaning living room in Croatian) is one of the most happening spots in Rijeka, any time of the day. Come for your morning coffee and read one of their library books in Croatian or English; then come back and hang out at night, particularly for one of its open mic comedy or jazz nights, usually on Wednesdays or Fridays.

If you need to start your day with a serious espresso, check out the caffeinated goods at Štriga, a brilliant little kiosk in a small square just by the River Rjecina before it hits the sea. It has mostly outdoor seating but a very cosy interior too, should the weather insist. Just over the road, Nemo Pub is another favourite with the young hipsters here, for its prices, fab staff and river views.

There are also some good haunts up the hill in the Trsat area; local vibes aplenty at Monte Cristo Bar, with its eccentric but charming staff, or music lovers’ favourite Sabrage Bar next door, which serves a great wine menu and Belgian beers until the small hours, as well as hosting concerts by students from the neighbouring music school.

Where to shop

Croatia is less westernised than many of its European neighbours and, by and large, cute independent boutiques are in vogue here. In the market for a new suit? Varteks has got you covered. A Croatian chain, selling high quality tailoring since 1918, this branch in Ivana Koblera Square has a retro feel because it’s been on this site for decades. Also selling sharp shirts and crisp dresses, it’s definitely worth popping into.

For edgy, cool design check out Small Gallery V & V Bruketa, a showroom trimmed with fine art and homewares selling paintings, sculptures, ceramic lamps and plates. Or on the opposite end of the spectrum, there are some great antique shops in the area: Antik Shop Morčić is a few doors down on Užarska Street and sells some treasures.

By the waterfront, Dallas Music Shop is a delightfully grungy vendor of records and music memorabilia, including T-shirts and books. A chocolate shop with a wonderfully onomatopoeic name, Deliiicije is based at the eastern end of Korzo and a great place to get edible souvenirs or gifts.

Architectural highlight

Rijeka’s City Clock Tower on the Korzo is a lemony Baroque marvel. This incarnation dates to the 17th century, but there’s been a similar clock-on-top-of-gate structure here on the site since medieval times, marking the entrance to the docks from the city behind it. A Rijeka icon.

Nuts and bolts

What currency do I need?

Croatian Kuna.

What language do they speak?

Croatian.

Should I tip?

10 per cent.

How should I get around?

Downtown Rijeka is walkable but you can cycle to the beaches.

What’s the best view?

Trsat Castle.

Insider tip?

Keep an eye on the Visit Rijeka website ‒ last winter they gave free tourist cards to anyone staying in the city for two nights or more, giving free access to the city’s museums.

Getting there

Trying to fly less?

You can get the train as far as Trieste in Italy, via Paris, then take a bus onwards from Trieste to Rijeka. Alternatively, get the train from Paris to Munich, from where you can catch a direct sleeper train overnight to Rijeka.

Fine with flying?

Croatia Airlines and Ryanair both have direct flights from the UK to Rijeka’s airport; Pula is next closest.

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