Ria Xi had been running for about six days when disaster struck. The 26-year-old was halfway through her incredible mission, each step under the desert sun bringing her closer to becoming the first person to complete a never-before-done ultramarathon route in Egypt.

Suddenly, one slip of her foot between the asphalt and the sand sent her tumbling – twisting her ankle in a way that any runner would dread. “I landed on my right ankle really hard and thought ‘this is over,’” Ria explained, adding that the incident had ironically happened on her “rest day” in a remote part of the Sinai Peninsula.

Ria was on a mission to become the first person to run Egypt’s 550km Sinai Trail. She’d already completed hundreds of kilometres, endured testing desert elements and overcome countless mental hurdles when her swelling ankle cast uncertainty over whether she’d make it.

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“I ended up running 46 kilometres on it anyway,” Ria explained, determined to push on. “Afterward, my foot was so swollen I didn’t think I could continue.” In that moment, Ria was also reminded of her strength, her past, and her resilience: something that she’d only truly discovered while running with the Bedouins in the desert.

“Even if I twist my ankle, get sick or face other setbacks, I can handle the pain and keep going. It’s a mindset that applies not just to running but to life,“ she explained. Miraculously, the swelling had subsided the following day, and she decided to press on.

Founded in 2015, the long-distance route loops across the lands of eight Bedouin tribes and some of the nation’s highest mountain ranges. With the local knowledge of Bedouin guides, the entire trail can be hiked in under two months – but no one had thought to run it until Ria came along.

In late December 2024, Ria looked out across the expansive sandy landscape before her and started to run. Away from phone reception or any amenities, her goal was to run around 50km each day before camping under the stars.

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But running through the Sinai Desert was no ordinary challenge. The route was unmarked, and the terrain was unpredictable, so she had to rely on local knowledge to cross the vast, unchartered land. To ensure she stayed en route, a group of Bedouin guides would usually drive ahead of Ria with gear and food, but on some occasions, they also ran alongside her.

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The Bedouins of the Middle East have been custodians of the Sinai Desert for centuries, passing down a unique understanding of the land through their generations. Thanks to the Sinai Trail, these formerly nomadic communities could showcase part of their culture while also benefitting from desert tourism.

“The main objective of the Sinai Trail Project is to maintain and preserve the Bedouin cultural heritage,” Mostafa Aboel Fadl, the co-founder of the Sinai Trail, told The Independent. He added that it unlocks economic benefits for the communities, generating sustainable income through accommodation, guiding, crafts and food. “It's a good opportunity to empower them and give them the opportunity to maintain their identity in the mountains or the deserts,” he said.

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While few of Ria’s guides spoke English, she trusted their navigational knowledge to cross the terrain safely. “I learned that guiding isn’t just a modern thing – these tribes have been guiding pilgrimages for thousands of years,” she explained, noting groups may have historically passed through this region on the way to Mecca or Mount Sinai. “Their knowledge of the land and its resources is ancestral.”

Throughout the 13 days, Ria would start at around 6.30 am each day, crossing valleys, dunes and mountains alongside her guides. She discovered spectacular little-known architectural wonders and even ancient Egyptian hieroglyphic inscriptions along the way. “Near Nuweiba, there are some of the oldest stone structures in human history – burial houses dating back to 3,000 or 4,000 BC. It’s insane to think they’re just right there,” she said.

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At other points, she was left utterly in awe of the natural landscapes before her. “I felt like I was in the Mojave Desert or Death Valley – wide-open desert with huge mountains in the distance. It was really, really incredible,” she added. “There were places with just sand dunes, where there was no path at all. Even the footprints would be blown away in no time.” As the sun began to set, Ria would sleep wherever her guides found shelter, sometimes in caves or abandoned houses or directly under the stars.

Like any ultra-marathon runner, Ria was also confronted with breaking through several “walls” on her epic endeavour. “The first three days, I just felt so lonely,” she explained, adding a language barrier with her guides made it challenging to discuss the upcoming route or even to know how far along she was on the Sinai Trail. “It was something I didn’t expect to feel. Some people say ultramarathons are pure mental games, and I didn’t realise how much it would affect me.“

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It wasn’t long before her body also started to feel the strain. Temperatures in the desert often drop below zero degrees at night during this time of year, and her immune system started to struggle. Incredibly, despite suffering from congestion and flu-like symptoms, Ria found the strength to push on. Listening to audiobooks of other endurance runners, such as Russ Cook, helped inspire her to keep placing one foot in front of the other.

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Ria also had another reason not to give up. Dahab’s proximity to Gaza, just 300km away, had weighed heavily on her mind: “Even if you’re not talking about it every day, it’s always there, in the back of your mind.” So, when her journey gained attention in the local community, she decided to do more than just run. In the days leading up to her ultramarathon, she partnered with Network for Palestine, an organisation supporting Palestinian families from Gaza to raise more money for their work.

When it came to the final stretch of her run, Ria was joined by several friends from Dahab who ran alongside her as she neared her finish line. On 7 January 2025, Xi finally completed her mission, becoming the first person ever to run the length of the trail. In 13 days, she’d run the equivalent of almost 12 marathons back-to-back, crossing spectacular desert landscapes and unlocking a new awareness of her abilities and the magic of the Sinai Desert and the people who call it home.

Over a week after returning to reality, Ria is still processing what she has accomplished. While she’s now excited about attempting future ultramarathons, she hopes her recent journey will encourage others to step out of their comfort zones.

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“I really appreciate what she's doing,” Mostafa added, referring to Ria as a “superhero runner” who has helped to have a positive impact on the Sinai Trail. The route’s creator explained that few people have recently visited the trail but he believes her run creates “a powerful story” that can help “other travellers get inspired”.

What had started as a simple idea has left the runner with a new sense of purpose. The fact that the ultramarathon route was first completed by a woman was just an added bonus: “I think it’s empowering to push the boundaries of what’s possible and to show that women can take on these challenges,” she proudly said. “This run taught me so much about my inner strength. My mom always said resilience was our family’s biggest strength growing up. I didn’t believe her, but now I see she was right.”

For further information about visiting Egypt’s Sinai Trail, contact Mostafa on: sinaitrailcommunity@gmail.com.

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