It’s night-time and I’m walking along a pitch-dark, lonely lane in Stanley, a tiny fishing village on a remote peninsula in the northwest corner of Tasmania (also known as Lutruwita Lutruwita, the Palawa Tasmanian Aboriginal name for the island). The patchwork of stars above me is radiant, but my nerves are taut, despite my rational mind knowing there’s little to fear. I freeze, startled, as a wallaby emerges from the darkness, before bouncing away. Finally, the sound of breaking waves on the shoreline swells – and I reach my destination unscathed.

The fine golden sands of Godfrey’s Beach are home to a small colony of little or “fairy” penguins – and it’s past their bedtime. From the safety of a dedicated viewing platform illuminated by special red lights designed not to disturb these charming creatures, I watch with delight as the tiny birds hop, tumble and waddle their way back from the ocean to the safety of their sandy burrows. Standing no taller than a tube of kitchen roll, these pint-sized birds are the smallest of their species in the world, making this twice-daily journey a long one for short legs. The penguins can only be found in southern Australia and New Zealand, making this nature spectacle the perfect end to what has already been an unforgettable day.

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With a population of around 600 people, Stanley is on the way to nowhere – but well worth the journey. As well as the penguins, it’s also home to Hursey Seafoods, which was named the best restaurant in Australia at the 2024 National Seafood Industry Awards. Despite the accolade, it’s a relaxed, family-run joint dishing up a mouth-watering selection of locally sourced seafood. I’m seated at a table with a glorious view of the perilous Bass Strait which separates Tasmania from mainland Australia and presented with an enormous southern rock lobster, known here as “crayfish”, bathed in garlic butter. Sinking my teeth into the bouncy white flesh, I close my eyes and savour the moment.

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While Hursey’s may be the recipient of an award, a focus on local, seasonal produce, prepped to perfection, seems to be one of Tasmania’s USPs. This idyllic island state – Australia’s most mountainous and heavily forested – is best known for its pristine wilderness. Situated 250km south of Melbourne, it’s home to 19 national parks, 450 mountains and the planet’s cleanest air, courtesy of its prime location in the Southern Ocean. And it’s this, alongside rich, fertile soil and the sea’s bounty, that gives it a culinary edge other countries would kill for.

A cooler climate than the mainland also makes it a prime wine-growing region with 230 vineyards. Put simply, it’s a dream destination for foodies. Highlights during our trip included Freycinet Marine Farm, a casual spot which just happens to serve up some of the best seafood on the island, Launceston’s Stillwater restaurant – one of the country’s most celebrated fine-dining establishments – and countless lunch and brunch spots in Hobart, Tasmania’s capital, including Room for a Pony, Sunbear and Sawak Cafe. As well as a standalone outlet on Hobart harbourside, the Van Diemen’s Land Creamery ice cream can also be purchased from selected suppliers around the country. Creamy, sumptuous and award-winning, it’s well worth seeking out.

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Overtourism is now a valid and contemporary concern, so it feels like a luxury to visit a place with a surfeit of attractions and very few people to compete with to enjoy them. In Tasmania, there’s no battling for elbow room in shops, bars or restaurants and no queuing for attractions or traffic jams, a fact which indubitably contributes to the relaxed vibe that permeates the island. Away from Hobart, roads are well maintained, easy to navigate and encompass a diverse scenery that shifts from vineyards to mountains, sheep farms to rolling moorlands and dramatic valleys. During a seven-day road trip, we travel around 1,300km, largely sticking to just three roads. Aussies also drive on the left, making it a great choice for travellers intimidated by driving on the continent.

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And the beaches! While Australia is renowned for having some of the best stretches of sand in the world, for me Tasmania comes top because there’s almost nobody else on them. And with over 1,000 to choose from (Tassie has more beaches relative to its size than anywhere else in Australia), we’re spoiled for choice.

Wineglass Bay in Freycinet National Park often tops lists of the world’s best beaches and it’s easy to see why. There’s a viewing platform accessible by a short walk, but we opt to climb down 1,000 steps to reach the beach itself. Sinking our toes into the soft, white sand and watching the bright turquoise barrelling surf is indisputably worth the workout.

On the west side of the island, the wild Ocean Beach is the island’s longest, stretching for more than 30km. Striding along this vast expanse and breathing in the fresh air makes the commuter crush feel light-years away. As well as being exceptionally easy on the eye, the picturesque Binalong Bay and Bay of Fires conservation region on the northeast coast is also a regular stopping off point for migrating humpback whales. During our visit, we watch in amazement as a mother and her calf breach just metres from the shoreline. The more we see, the more amazed we are – it’s like a traveller’s bucket list made real.

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Australia’s assortment of supersized and deadly fauna may be the stuff of nightmares, but Tasmania’s wildlife scene is particularly unique – and surprisingly cute. Endemic species include a rare colony of white wallabies and the endangered Tasmanian devil, known for its piercing screech and powerful jaws. We visit Devils at Cradle, a sanctuary devoted to these threatened creatures in Cradle Mountain National Park, to learn more about the challenges facing this unique and misunderstood animal, from habitat destruction to a highly infectious and fatal cancer, and discover their softer side.

We also spot an elusive platypus in a mountain lake, plus several wombats in this dramatic mountain wilderness. The latter resemble small and docile bumbling bears and seem utterly nonplussed by our presence. Cruising on the highway, we see echidna shuffling along the roadside – a shy spiny anteater which is objectively adorable. Wallabies and pademelons (a small marsupial easily confused with a wallaby) can also be found across much of the island. Throughout our stay, our eyes are like saucers, constantly scanning the bush for signs of other fantastic beasts.

Untouched wilderness, a mellow vibe, incredible food, wildlife and beaches make Tasmania a dream destination that has remained bizarrely under-the-radar for too long. But things are changing. In 2021, Launceston was named as a Unesco City of Gastronomy. More recently, Launceston and the Tamar Valley made Lonely Planet’s 2025 Best in Travel list – the only Australian destination in the round-up. And Abta (the Association of British Travel Agents) also named Tasmania as one of its 10 destinations to watch this year. My advice? Go before the crowds arrive. You won’t regret a moment.

For more information on Tasmania travel, visit discovertasmania.com.au

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